On a hilltop south of Ueno Park, concealed among the trees, lies the Former Iwasaki Family Residence. While the name Iwasaki might not resonate with every traveler, the legacy of this influential family is undeniable—they founded the multinational giant Mitsubishi. The Iwasaki family crest even inspired the company’s iconic three-diamond logo.
The property features three distinct buildings: a Western-style Victorian mansion used for hosting guests, a traditional Japanese-style house where the family resided, and the Billiards House, connected to the Western mansion by an underground tunnel and resembling a Swiss chalet. Built in 1896 during the height of the Meiji era (1868–1912), a period of rapid modernization and Westernization in Japan, the residence served as the primary home for Hisaya Iwasaki, the eldest son and third president of Mitsubishi.
The estate was designed by Josiah Condor, a British architect often called the “father of Japanese modern architecture.” Condor’s pupils would later design prominent landmarks such as Tokyo Station and Akasaka Palace. Tokyo Station, completed in 1914, is a grand red-brick building that serves as a gateway to the capital and symbolizes Japan's modernization during the Meiji and Taisho eras. Akasaka Palace, originally built as the Crown Prince’s residence, showcases exquisite Neo-Baroque architecture blended with Japanese craftsmanship and now serves as a State Guest House.
Commissioned by Hisaya Iwasaki, Condor initially designed 20 buildings across the expansive 49,500-square-meter property. However, only the three aforementioned structures remain today, with the others lost to wartime destruction and later demolition by the Japanese Department of Justice during a redevelopment project in the 1970s.
The second floor of the Western mansion draws inspiration from Pennsylvania country homes, reflecting Hisaya’s time studying at the University of Pennsylvania. Notably, some rooms are adorned with gilded leather wallpaper, a rare and luxurious feature. The first floor, on the other hand, showcases a blend of Jacobean architecture from 17th-century England, characterized by intricate wood paneling, ornate fireplaces, and large mullioned windows, combined with Renaissance influences such as classical columns and decorative friezes. Symmetry defines the layout, while carved Islamic motifs—characterized by bold geometric patterns—add an exotic touch. A white-columned veranda overlooking the estate offers a glimpse into the life of Japan’s pre-World War elite.
Following the war, the property underwent significant transitions. The newly formed CIA repurposed it for their own use before it was passed on to an Anglican theological seminary. Eventually, the Japanese government reclaimed the residence, designating it as an Important Cultural Property.
The Former Iwasaki Family Residence offers a unique journey into Japan’s past, standing as a testament to the Meiji era’s cultural blending of East and West. Hidden in plain sight near the bustling streets of Ueno, this tranquil site invites visitors to step back in time and explore the legacy of one of Japan’s most powerful families.
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