MK Deep Dive: Hakone - A Journey Through History and Spirituality
- M.R. Lucas
- Mar 19
- 5 min read
Ashinoko Lake: A Crater of Beauty and Mystery
Nestled within the caldera of the Hakone volcano, Ashinoko Lake (芦ノ湖, Ashi-no-ko) is a breathtaking sight, its still waters reflecting the grandeur of Mount Fuji on clear days. Formed around 3,100 years ago by volcanic activity, the lake has long been regarded as a place of spiritual power and natural wonder.
For centuries, locals believed Ashinoko held mystical energy, a sacred body of water where nature and the divine converge. Today, it remains a favored retreat, drawing visitors seeking scenic beauty, renowned hot springs, and historical landmarks. Traditional ryokan (旅館, ryokan) line the shores, offering a timeless connection to Japan’s rich hospitality culture.
The lake’s most revered site is Hakone Shrine (箱根神社, Hakone Jinja), a Shinto sanctuary nestled at the foot of Mount Hakone. A local saying goes, "There are no hot springs in places where you can see Mount Fuji," yet in 1966, the discovery of Ashinoko Onsen (芦ノ湖温泉, Ashi-no-ko Onsen) defied this belief, drawing geothermal waters from Yunohanazawa Onsen (湯花沢温泉, Yunohanazawa Onsen).
The name "Ashinoko" translates to "Lake of Reeds"—芦 (ashi, "reed") and 湖 (ko, "lake"). Lush forests frame the shoreline, attracting hikers who seek tranquility in its landscapes. Meanwhile, those who prefer the water can cross the lake aboard sightseeing ships, some modeled after historic man-of-war pirate vessels, adding an element of adventure to the serene setting.
Framed by Fuji’s majestic silhouette, Lake Ashinoko is more than a scenic retreat—it is a portal into Japan’s spiritual and historical past.
Hakone Shrine: A Sanctuary of Spiritual Energy
For over 1,200 years, Hakone Shrine has been a place of pilgrimage, its ancient cedar-lined paths leading countless travelers, warriors, and rulers to seek protection, guidance, and prosperity.
Shogun and samurai once prayed for safe passage, believing the shrine’s deities watched over their journeys. Today, visitors walk the same stone steps beneath towering trees, passing through multiple torii gates (鳥居, torii)—each a symbolic threshold into the sacred. The first gate stands near Motohakone Port (元箱根港, Motohakone Kō), the second at the shrine entrance, and the fourth at the base of the stairway leading to the main sanctuary.
A Place of Blessings and Legends
Hakone Shrine is revered for its divine power in:
Granting wishes and prosperity
Warding off misfortune
Ensuring road safety
Blessing relationships and matchmaking
In particular, Kuzuryu Shrine (九頭龍神社, Kuzuryū Jinja)—one of three Hakone shrines—is dedicated to matters of the heart. Visiting both Hakone Shrine and Kuzuryu Shrine is called Ryosha Mairi (両社参り, Ryōsha Mairi), while adding Hakone Motomiya Shrine (箱根元宮, Hakone Motomiya Jinja) completes Sansha Mairi (三社参り, Sansha Mairi), believed to bring even greater blessings.
The shrine’s most enduring legend tells of Mangan Shonin, a Buddhist monk who pacified the nine-headed dragon that once terrorized the lake’s villages. Through his prayers and rituals, the creature was transformed into a protective deity, forever enshrined within Hakone’s sacred landscape.
Over the centuries, Hakone Shrine attracted figures such as Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, Minamoto no Yoritomo, and Tokugawa Ieyasu, cementing its role as a guardian of the Kanto region. Once called Hakone Gongen (箱根権現), the shrine’s influence remains strong today, welcoming nearly 20 million visitors annually.
The Peace Torii: A Symbol of Resilience
Perhaps Hakone Shrine’s most iconic sight is the Heiwa no Torii (平和の鳥居, Heiwa no Torii), or Peace Torii, which rises from the waters of Lake Ashi.
Built in 1952, the gate commemorates the signing of the San Francisco Peace Treaty, which formally ended Japan’s imperial role and restored its sovereignty. A plaque inscribed with the kanji for "peace"—added in 1964 during the Tokyo Olympics—was penned by Prime Minister Yoshida Shigeru (吉田茂, Yoshida Shigeru), one of Japan’s postwar architects. Interestingly, the plaque is only visible from the lake, making it a secret symbol for those aboard sightseeing ships.
The Peace Torii stands as a silent testament to resilience, its vermillion frame rising from the waters like a beacon of harmony. Visitors flock to capture its striking reflection against the lake—a fleeting, yet powerful reminder of Japan’s journey through history.
The Deities of Hakone Shrine
Hakone Shrine enshrines the Hakone Okami (箱根大神, Hakone Okami), three Shinto deities revered for their prosperity, protection, and connection to Mount Fuji:
Ninigi-no-Mikoto (瓊瓊杵尊, Ninigi-no-Mikoto): Grandson of Amaterasu (天照, Amaterasu), the sun goddess. He brought rice cultivation to Japan, ensuring bountiful harvests and prosperity.
Konohanasakuya-hime (木花之開耶姫, Konohanasakuya-hime): Goddess of volcanoes and beauty, closely linked to Mount Fuji. She protects women, childbirth, and fertility while warding off fires and natural disasters.
Hoori-no-Mikoto (火遠理命, Hoori-no-Mikoto): Son of Ninigi and Konohanasakuya-hime, a deity of prosperity, business success, and maritime safety.
Each deity reflects Hakone’s deep ties to nature, history, and human ambition.
The Legend of the Nine-Headed Dragon
Before the shrine, before the torii, before the roads leading here, Hakone was a land of fire, water, and spirits.
A legend tells of a monstrous nine-headed dragon that once dwelled in Lake Ashinoko. The beast demanded child sacrifices, terrorizing the nearby villages.
Mangan Shonin, a wandering Buddhist priest, confronted the dragon. Through prayer and ritual, he subdued the creature, binding it to the depths of the lake. Over time, the dragon was transformed into Kuzuryu Myojin, a guardian spirit associated with water, weather, and protection.
Mangan built a shrine to the newly reformed deity, replacing the gruesome human offerings with steamed rice and beans—a ritual still practiced in ceremonies today.
To this day, visitors can still see Kuzuryu Shrine, standing as a reminder of the balance between chaos and harmony, destruction and redemption.
Hakone: Where History and Spirituality Meet
Hakone is not just a destination—it is an experience.
From the sacred waters of Ashinoko to the towering torii gates, from the echoes of samurai prayers to the whispers of ancient gods, Hakone exists at the intersection of history, spirituality, and natural wonder.
Whether seeking tranquility, adventure, or divine blessings, one thing remains certain—Hakone calls to those who are willing to listen.
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