Art Deco, the decorative style that emerged in France before World War I and flourished in the United States during the 1930s—especially in Manhattan—is on full display at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, designated by the government as an Important Cultural Property. Once the former residence of Prince Asaka, a general in the Imperial Japanese Army and son-in-law of Emperor Meiji, this architectural marvel is a work of art in itself, reflected in its official designation as an Important Cultural Property, now housing a rotating selection of contemporary art exhibitions.
Passing through the stone entrance gate flanked by shishi statues—lion guardians associated with Japanese Buddhism and Shinto—you`re soon greeted by glass angels crafted by René Lalique, a renowned Art Nouveau designer. Lalique’s influence is also seen in the museum’s choice of chandeliers, which exude the sophistication and craftsmanship of the era. From here, the journey unfolds as you explore lavish rooms designed by Henri Rapin, a French interior decorator and painter. Every detail, from intricately carved ceiling panels to murals evoking antiquity and marble accents throughout, speaks of a meticulous artistry rarely seen in contemporary design.
After spending two years in Paris with Princess Nobuko, the eighth daughter of Emperor Meiji, Prince Asaka was captivated by the Art Deco style he encountered in Europe. Upon returning to Japan, he commissioned his new residence to reflect this aesthetic, resulting in the construction of the mansion, completed in 1933. Every element, from the lighting fixtures to the drapery, channels an ethereal atmosphere.
Beyond the sophistication of the interior, the mansion’s carefully preserved Japanese and European gardens also beg to be explored, providing a green oasis in the center of the city. Here, Japanese tradition meets European elegance, offering a stark yet welcome contrast to Tokyo’s hypermodern sprawl.
This oft-overlooked destination is a must-visit for anyone seeking to understand the cultural and artistic currents that influenced Japan’s transformation leading up to the second world war. A true feast for the senses and a perfect way to spend an afternoon.
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